Vittoriale degli Italiani: genius and madness of Gabriele D'Annunzio

Vittoriale degli Italiani is immersed in the greenery of Gardone Riviera, a small lush and green town overlooking the Brescia shores of Lake Garda, between Salò and Toscolano Maderno. If you are going to visit the Lake, this is one of those attractions that you should definitely not miss. It doesn’t matter if you are an admirer of Gabriele D'Annunzio and a passionate reader of his works: even if you have never loved “Pioggia nel Pineto” (the rain in the pinewood) we are sure that you will be amazed at this extraordinary place of tourist interest. The visit to Vittoriale is in fact a unique experience of its kind; it will surprise you and fascinate you for the madness, the ingenious and the bizarre details that it hides between the buildings and the boundless park. We are talking about the residence of the poet Gabriele D'Annunzio, who spent the last years of his life right inside this Museum-House, built through the help of the well-known architect Gian Carlo Maroni.

 

Buildings, park, theatre and waterways: a unique residence

What normally is called “D’Annunzio's house”, is actually a much more complex dwelling; it includes the Prioria (the real house, which develops in a maze of rooms rich of all kinds of ornaments) and the park, where you can find real surprises. Would you ever expect to find the bow of a ship nestled among the plants? Or maybe to be able to admire the anti-submarine motorboat, with which D'Annunzio himself dared to carry out a military raid in the Bay of Buccari during the First World War?

Not to mention one of the most beautiful Italian amphitheatres, which enjoys a breathtaking view of the Lake and where, - today as then - shows of the highest level are set up. 

Currently this magnificent theatre hosts about 1500 spectators, who during the summer can enjoy the magic of concerts and performances of national and international artists, which often record sold-out and which attract audiences from all over Europe.

The Vittoriale, however, is not only a collection of buildings and large naval exhibitions; it is also a luxuriant park that hosts the Laghetto delle Danze (the dance lake), waterways, an orchard, a lemon house, the Valletta dell'Acqua Pazza (the mad water valley) and the dog cemetery, where the trusted friends of the Vate-poet rest. These are just some of the places you meet during the long walk inside the green area of Vittoriale; it is so vast that it requires a map to help you find your way around. After D'Annunzio's death, the architect Maroni built a mausoleum on the highest hill of Vittoriale, from which you can enjoy an enchanting view of Lake Garda. In the middle is buried the poet, while the ten tombs that surround him host the remains of heroes and legionnaires of Fiume. Contrary to what one might think, this place is able to convey a deep sense of peace, while observing the whole world of D'Annunzio from above, who continues to talk incessantly about him. 

 

Prioria: extravagant environments and hidden messages

Prioria is the structure that hosts the house of the poet and certainly represents the most interesting part of the whole visit. The building still shows all the original furnishings and thousands of objects that D’Annunzio had chosen to decorate it. We are talking about ca. 10,000 objects, ornaments and tinsel, that together with 33,000 other books fill every space. Those who love clean and minimalist style will be overwhelmed by the richness of decorations in every room and by the excess of small objects that make a beautiful exhibition in the large bathroom. The curtains are heavy and the light is usually darkened, because of the sight problem from which the poet suffered. This detail makes the rooms even more obscure and suggestive, with particular regard to the Room of the leper, where D'Annunzio went to gather during the solemn anniversaries, where his body was exposed after his death, on a narrow and long bed that partly resembles a cradle, partly a coffin.

Prioria is full of symbols, coded messages and mottos. All this reveal a brilliant intelligence, a witty spirit and a great sense of humor. You will have to enter - despite yourself - through the door intended for unwelcome guests, from where also Mussolini had to pass many years ago, and you will admire the Room of the Mascheraio, where D'Annunzio made him wait a long time before receiving him. 

Of bizarre environments, there are many others, starting from the desk of the one-armed, where the poet pretended to be, not to have to answer the letters of creditors, to the dining room where a huge turtle served as a warning to the diners, inviting them to softness. 

 

Visit the Vittoriale: practical tips

Since 1923 Vittoriale is a foundation open to the public, thanks to the donation that D'Annunzio made to the "Italian people". You should know that there is really so much to see: usually only to visit the Prioria and the main attractions of the park you need about 3-4 hours. Difficult to find time - and energy - to make a complete visit of the house and the whole park, but it is always worth trying. We suggest you to take the whole day if you want to visit the Vittoriale with due calm. Keep in mind that Prioria is the only one that requires a guide, so you will have to book your visiting time when you buy your ticket at the entrance. 

The guide will take you to visit the various rooms of the house and tell you fascinating stories, bringing to your attention the most particular objects of every environment and explaining the symbols, which the poet loved so much. If you have already visited the Vittoriale and you are not interested in seeing the house again, you can choose to buy only the entrance ticket to the park, which you can visit following the map, which will be provided at the entrance. 

You can easily reach the Vittoriale by car or by public transport, but you can also enjoy a relaxing crossing of the Lake by ferry, because the Gardone port is just a walk away from the D'Annunzio’s house. So you can get there easily starting from the opposite side of the Lake, avoiding traffic and turning the trip into an opportunity to admire the Garda from a new perspective.